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A BRIEF HISTORY OF OUR
WINE GROWING REGION
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" Savoy is not what one has come to believe
from the reports of ill-informed or mistaken writers: a sterile
country whose only inhabitants are bears and marmots
The
hills give good wines such as those from Montmélian, Frangy
or Seyssel. There are vineyards at the base of the glaciers."
Count de la Résie (1847).
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In
Savoy, the origins of wine growing seem to go back to earliest
antiquity. In History of Agriculture in Savoy (Histoire de l'agriculture
en Savoie), Pierre Tochon writes that Latin authors such as Pliny
and Columelle had already mentioned the vineyards of the Allobrogie
country in the most laudatory terms, in the first century AD.
"Wine growing in the Allobrogie country had reached the highest
quality ever since the Greeks methods were already used. They
were the first to flavour the wine by introducing extra substances
during the winemaking process".
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Then, in the Middle Ages, the names of the most
famous vineyards began to be mentioned in the charters. Those
reference documents are deeds, kept in monasteries' or priories'
archives, for the Church properties, already substantial, were
expanding owing to many settlements. However, the monks were not
only accumulating goods but also were also carrying out various
experiments concerning the management of the vineyards, the grape
growing and the winemaking methods. And so the Savoyard wines'
quality improved.
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 The
progressive abolition of serfdom and the emergence of the bourgeoisie
hastened the decline in the seigniorial lands. The lands were
redistributed, and so the vineyards were parcelled out into small
plots. From the XVIth to the XVIIIth century, the vineyards extended
up the slopes to an altitude of nearly a thousand metres. They
also stretched down to the more fertile soils of the plains. Those
changes, combined with the growth of poor vines, spoiled the wines'
quality. To counter this, it was decided in 1556 to restrict the
vineyard cultivation to a third of the cultivation area. Later,
the duke Emmanuel Philibert instituted, by an edict in 1559, the
vintage's proclamation in order to favour the harvest of the ripe
grapes. But these regulations had little effect, because wine
growing, more lucrative than traditional farming, accounted for
a more and more considerable share of the peasant's income. A
chronic overproduction gripped the Savoyard region. This continued
until the second half of the XVIIIth century, prompting the marquis
Costa de Beauregard to comment : "Savoy has many vineyards.
It may be one of the causes of its miseries. When there's plenty
of wine, people get used to it and they drink much of it. When
there's a lack of it, people can't live without it anymore: the
price of the wine become then excessive, so excessive that it
becomes possible to bear the foreign wines' importation costs.
We do not only waste a precious harvest, but we wear ourselves
out replacing it". He also said : " Tilling and wine
growing have to be two separate trades
They work against
each other's interest."
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In a general way, the French revolution (1789)
favourably affected the development of the vineyards of Savoy:
the farmers became owners through buying back the state-owned
vineyards, thereby diminishing share cropping. Farming by the
owner became widespread. This evolution resulted in an ever-increasing
care toward the vineyards. At the beginning of the XIXth century,
the quality of the Savoyard wines was quite inconsistent. This
stemmed from the great variations in altitude levels, from the
type of vine grown, and from the wine-growing methods chosen.
It was still very common practice to grow vines in altitude (what
is called "cep hautain" in French), planted along trees
so that they grow leaning on them, and planted in combination
with other crops.
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The annexation of Savoy by France in 1860 had
less disastrous consequences than expected. Wines from Savoy began
to compete with those from the South of France shortly before
the phylloxera crisis, the crisis that threw every pre-existing
basic knowledge into question. Phylloxera appeared in Savoy in
1877. By 1883, associations from approximately ten communes were
created and took to fighting its spread using carbon sulphide.
But in 1885, 55 out of the 65 wine-growing communes suffered from
phylloxera. During the same period, in 1878, mildew appeared and
then powdery mildew in 1880. Despite these events, the wine-growing
growing regions did not diminish in size. Actually, with the grafting
method on American stocks having been discovered in the late 1880s,
a huge replanting project was undertaken, aided by the high prices
resulting from the shrinkage of the Mediterranean vineyards area.
That enabled to make up for the damages caused by phylloxera.
The restoration of the vineyards brought deep changes. First,
the vineyards' appearances changed: the "hautain" vines
(planted in altitude) almost completely disappeared in favour
of single climbing vines along fields, of multirow high vines
with a wide gap in between, that is sometimes filled with crops
or low vines. The structure of landed property was also changed,
since the phylloxera crisis contributed to eliminating the wine
aristocracy almost completely.
"The large scale landowners, who received no wine-producing
income during nearly 10 years, who were discouraged by the enormous
costs for restoration, thought it better to sell, in order to
buy less precarious investments elsewhere." (C. Dalban)
Finally, the vine's maintenance methods changed when Mr. Fleury-Lacoste,
then president of the Central Society of Agriculture, published
in 1865 the wine grower guide book in which he explained the new
pruning process. The XIXth century thus ended with a total revival
of the wine-growing activity in Savoy, mainly thanks to research
seeking to improve the promotion and development of wine growing
- especially in low lying areas. The increasing production of
the entirely replanted vineyards in the South of France created
a crisis, which lasted until 1905. The First World War had some
serious repercussions on viticulture: the lack of labour or its
high prices contributed to let certain lands lie fallow or to
pull the vines up the plots and convert them into meadows. However,
the replanting went on, more easily than before because of very
good harvests and a significant price increase. The slump of the
harvest of 1922, the crisis of 1930, the fall in the birth rate
and the incipient town planning generated further reductions in
the wine-growing region. The sloping plots mainly suffered those
reductions, since their cultivation would be given up again.
"But while reducing thus its cultivated area, the vineyard
has seen its yield rising; the wine-growing techniques are improving
and we even notice some progress in the vinification procedures."
(R. Blanchard).
The Second World War still intensified this movement of concentration,
though less than it was feared. The vineyards thus largely took
part in the development of the Savoyard landscape. Today, they
keep the privileged place they always occupied, but their current
features are only the reflection of what they formerly were. The
vineyard covers a very limited geographical area, which underwent
certain reductions:
- A reduction in altitude: the vineyard had reached its limits
in many places.
- A space reduction: it is concentrated in the most favourable
areas for its growing, which guarantee a more constant quality.
If it remains one of the most favourite cultivation of Savoy,
viticulture is however not safe from risks, mainly concerning
climatic hazards. Some recent campaigns definitely attest it.
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